The butterfly effect: How the W Concept takeover stirred up Korea's fashion industry

Behind the scenes of the 265 billion won deal poised to revive Shinsegae's online fashion business

The butterfly effect: How the W Concept takeover stirred up Korea's fashion industry
Chae-yeon Kim 4
2021-06-22 13:52:08 why29@hankyung.com
The Deep Dive

“Just give us three weeks. We’ll offer a price by then.”

This conversation took place in early March. A senior executive from retail giant Shinsegae Group was visiting IMM Private Equity to express its intent to acquire W Concept -- the country's No. 1 women's fashion platform. It was a pivotal moment, a foreshadowing of W Concept's new home.

But the timing wasn’t great. IMM PE and Korea's leading fashion platform Musinsa were near wrapping up negotiations over the W Concept deal. Not to mention, IMM PE was somewhat doubtful about Shinsegae’s approach since the company had seemed lukewarm ever since the bid kicked off at the end of last year.

To IMM PE’s surprise, Shinsegae did not waver and made clear its intent to chase after W Concept – reflecting the firm will of Chung Yong-jin, the vice-chairman of Shinsegae Group, who was determined to buy the fashion platform.

Three weeks later as promised, Shinsegae participated in the bid via its e-commerce arm, SSG.com, thus becoming the highest bidder and offering conditions far better than the other bidders.

From thereon the deal progressed swiftly without any hiccups under the leadership of Kang Heui-seok, the chief executive of Shinsegae’s affiliate Emart Inc. The entire process took fewer than three months from their first meeting to the deal's closing.

“Shinsegae affiliates joined forces and moved the deal along with a quick decision-making process. It showed me that a substantial change was taking place within the group,” said Son Dong-han, the chief executive of IMM PE.

MAKING BIG BETS TO BRING BACK E-COMMERCE


Initially, Shinsegae wasn’t seen as a strong contender in the race to acquire W Concept. The retail giant had been passive in the M&A scene without any notable deals for the past few years.

But this began to change from late 2020. Earlier this year, Shinsegae acquired a 100% stake in SK Group’s baseball club, SK Wyverns, for 130 billion won and just a month later followed with the W Concept deal valued at 265 billion won ($234 million).

Shinsegae made a winning move of acquiring W Concept to hold onto its leading position in the online and offline retail market. In particular, the domestic online fashion market is valued at around 60 trillion won – a market too big to be dismissed.

Despite its competitive edge in fresh produce and daily necessities, SSG.com's fashion segment had been left unattended. Now with W Concept under the Shinsegae umbrella, SSG.com will be able to boost its fashion lineup and secure the coveted millennials and Gen Zers, collectively known as MZers.

The butterfly effect: How the W Concept takeover stirred up Korea's fashion industry

W Concept is one of the big five online fashion apps in Korea, targeting young women in their twenties and thirties with an offering of stylish and contemporary brands of clothing and shoes. Some 6,000 brands are available on the platform.

A noteworthy aspect of the deal is that Shinsegae will maintain W Concept's management – an extremely rare move since most large business groups or PE firms tend to replace the management after acquiring a company.

But Shinsegae determined that it’d be best to let the existing management continue handling W Concept’s operations to enhance the group's competitiveness in the e-commerce fashion sector.

“It’s not an easy decision to retain the existing management post-acquisition. It goes to show that Shinsegae is departing from the old ways of thinking and focusing on ways to provide full support to e-commerce specialists,” said IMM PE’s Son.

LARGE BUSINESS GROUPS RUSH TO ACQUIRE FASHION PLATFORMS

Shinsegae’s takeover of W Concept has stirred up the domestic fashion industry, prompting companies' rush to secure a footing in the fashion e-commerce scene.

Just a month after the Shinsegae-W Concept deal, Musinsa announced plans to acquire the No .2 women's fashion platform 29CM and its parent company StyleShare, a beauty and fashion-tip sharing social media platform.

Also, Korea's top mobile messaging app operator Kakao Corp. purchased the popular fashion platform Zigzag while platform giant Naver Corp. bought a minority stake in the fashion app Brandi.

The butterfly effect: How the W Concept takeover stirred up Korea's fashion industry

For now, Musinsa remains in the lead of Korea's online fashion industry as it has the most users. But it's uncertain if the company will be able to hold onto its position since many large business groups, such as Shinsegae, Kakao and Naver, are ramping up their online fashion investments.

These big companies' ultimate goal is the same: to gain footing in the e-commerce industry by securing loyal and precious consumers -- notably trend-sensitive MZers who are active fashion platform users.

Write to Chae-yeon Kim at why29@hankyung.com
Danbee Lee edited this article.

Fashion platform Ably looks to raise over $20 mn

Fashion platform Ably looks to raise over $20 mn

South Korea-based Ably Corporation, the operator of fashion platform Ably, is seeking to raise around 40 billion won ($35.3 million), attracting a pool of major domestic venture capital firms hoping to invest in the rapidly growing company, according to VC industry sources on May 20.Following

Fashion platforms for MZers attract investors; valuations surge

Fashion platforms for MZers attract investors; valuations surge

Fashion e-commerce platforms that have become mainstream shopping venues for millennials and Generation Z, or MZers, are seeing their valuations surge with investors increasingly keen to win over next-generation consumers.Last week, South-Korea based fashion mobile app Brandi announced that it

Fashion platforms Musinsa, Zigzag hit jackpot thanks to Gen Zers and millennials

Fashion platforms Musinsa, Zigzag hit jackpot thanks to Gen Zers and millennials

Musinsa, one of the largest online shopping platforms in South Korea South Korea’s online fashion apps are booming thanks to their ability to attract Gen Zers and millennials. This year, the top five players’ combined transaction amount surged to around 3.25 trillion won ($2.9 bil

Heated shopping platform M&As shake up fashion industry

Heated shopping platform M&As shake up fashion industry

South Korea's fashion industry is all shook up following the No. 1 online fashion platform Musinsa's decision to acquire 29CM, the country’s second-largest women’s fashion platform, in a move to boost its competitiveness in women's fashion and to reinforce its lead in the market.

Kakao to buy fashion app, pushing aside eBay Korea

Kakao to buy fashion app, pushing aside eBay Korea

Kakao Corp., South Korea's top mobile messaging app operator, is set to acquire a majority stake in Zigzag, a domestic online fashion platform targeting teenagers and twentysomethings, after it dropped a bid for eBay Korea, according to investment banking and IT industry sources on Apr. 8.Kaka

IMM PE's art of the exit: Cable maker, online mall

IMM PE's art of the exit: Cable maker, online mall

(Courtesy of Taihan Electric Wire Co.) Seoul-based IMM Private Equity has come into the spotlight with a series of lucrative exits in South Korea, including the 265 billion won ($237 million) sale of the online fashion mall W Concept to the country's retail giant Shinsegae last week.The $5.4 bi

Shinsegae buys Korean online fashion mall from IMM PE

Shinsegae buys Korean online fashion mall from IMM PE

Shinsegae Group has acquired South Korea's leading online fashion platform from IMM Private Equity, in a transaction estimated at between 250 billion and 300 billion won ($221 million-$265 million).Shinsegae's e-commerce arm SSG.COM signed an agreement to buy an 80% stake in W Concept from the

(* comment hide *}